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Jay Manuel a model Canadian |
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By Deborah Misquitta and Archie D'Cruz » Jay Manuel has an extra-special reason for wanting Canada's Next Top Model to deliver a memorable winner.
Sure, it's the first time he's hosting the TV show, part of a franchise that is an international ratings hit. More important, though, he'd like to see the winner raise Canada's profile in a fashion world that doesn't seem to recognize the country's contribution to the industry.
"I firmly believe that the international world of modelling claims Canadian talent but doesn't give Canada the props," the Illinois-born, but Toronto-raised Manuel told Confidence Bound in an exclusive interview.
"You look at models like Shalom Harlow, Linda Evangelista – they are Canadian, but in the world of modelling, they are rarely portrayed as such," he said. "Same goes with (Fashion Television host) Jeanne Beker or myself, we're known in the fashion industry as a whole but it's rarely put out that we're Canadian."
Manuel is right. Many fans of the show expressed surprise when it was announced that the star make-up artist would be hosting season two of the Canadian version.
"Jay Manuel is Canadian?! Well, I'll be darned" was a fairly typical comment on TV forums that track everything to do with the Next Top Model series both here and in the US.
Manuel is confident his background and experience with America's Next Top Model – where he was photoshoot director and one of the judges – will help in the quest to produce Canada's next runway star.
"On Canada's Next Top Model, I taking on a very different role as host and executive producer of the show. It is the executive producing part where I can really effect a lot of change," says Manuel. "It was important for me to elevate the brand of Canada's Next Top Model and I can bring a lot of knowhow that we apply to the American show."
As executive producer, he has control over the show's production values. Given that the Canadian version is going to air in many other countries, "it was important to produce a show where on a high level it speaks internationally," said Manuel.
While this is the first time that the shows on either side of the border are not being hosted by a supermodel (Tyra Banks and Tricia Helfer doing the honours until now), Manuel believes he has the 'X' factor needed for the show's success.
"I can really effect a lot of change here and bring a lot of energy and creativity to the show," he said. "You’re getting the same oomph factor that Tyra Banks brings to America’s Next Top Model, in conjunction with the all-rounded Jay – the person who is always there with constructive criticism.”
Manuel, whose client list includes stars like Alicia Silverstone, Rebecca Romijn, Kim Cattrall, David Bowie and Jennifer Lopez, promises a very hands-on role in helping the contestants transform into queens of the catwalk.
"I take on an active mentoring role with the girls, kind of like Tyra was in the first two cycles of ANTM – she showed up at photo shoots, the challenges..." Manuel and fellow-judges like Nolé Marin and Jeanne Beker will continue to mentor the winner behind the scenes after the show.
Marin has come on board as creative director, the role Manuel performs for Tyra Banks in the American version.
"The creative director role is such an important one not only for the girls to understand their strengths and weaknesses, but also for the viewing audience to really understand the girls' improvements – or failures for that matter," reveals Manuel. "It was important for me to cast that role, and it really rounds off the show."
So what exactly does it take to become Canada's Next Top Model? Manuel sums it up in one succinct sentence: "It takes a true passion for fashion."
Winning the show is not an end in itself, it's just the beginning, warns the show host, something that likely factored into the choice of the contestants.
"I have a group of girls who don't want to win for winning's sake. They go, 'Here's another notch on my belt,' and are not going back to whatever else. They really have a passion, they live for what's beyond the competition, and really it's the entrance to your career."
Deciding on who should take the mantle of Canada's Next Top Model is no easy task, says Manuel.
"What you're really doing is evaluating the sum of all their work, you're comparing how the models really measured up on the various challenges and how they presented themselves week after week. It's not just about the challenges, it's not like a report card. It is something beyond winning challenges, it's about having an all-encompassing power to truly win and woo industry professionals.
"That why it's so hard to define why someone like Kate Moss who is shorter than the standard is a superstar. It's a very difficult evaluation."
Physical beauty by itself does not guarantee success in the fashion industry says Manuel. To compete at an international level, a model needs to have "not only a certain physicality and maturity, but a true passionate drive and a need to be part of the industry."
While shortlisting contestants for the show, the producers also looked for women who could be true role models for young girls.
"If you look at the role models out there, they're all like these celebrities that are running around and not doing anything... they're really only famous for being famous," said Manuel. "It was important for me to go back to that era of supermodels not only being a spokesperson for a brand but also an aspirational role model. And that takes a very, very special woman, one who is savvy, intelligent, as well as has the looks."
Manuel is also against young women starving themselves to make it big on the catwalk.
"That's one of things I talk about in the competition. I don't believe in the size 0 model. Our girls are tall, thin and beautiful, but certainly not unhealthy. Even on the American show, we've never encouraged that. We talk about toning and healthy diet, never about starving yourself into something else.
"If someone is naturally larger, then they would move to a different genre of modelling. We never force people to conform. That's why I support a lot of European designers in banning size 0 models because it's extremely unhealthy."
For the man who inspires so many people, Manuel's own inspiration comes from a not so surprising source.
“I’ve worked all over the world for the past 15 years with icons like Herb Ritts, Richard Avedon and Annie Leibovitz… but if I had to start it off somewhere, I would say Jeanne Beker, the host of Fashion Television.
"I was a young teenager, living in Scarborough – and Saturday, 5 o clock, CTV’s Fashion Television was a must. She really, truly was the person who exposed me to the entire world of fashion."
As for style icons, Manuel says he loves the kind of debonair style as expressed in Hollywood classics by stars like Cary Grant.
"I am a suit and tie kind of guy. I love tailoring, my grandfather was a tailor.
"I also love the flair and the passion that John-Paul Gaultier and John Galliano have. In the billboard ad campaign for CNTM, I'm actually wearing Gaultier because he kind of designs for the superhero style that appeals for me."
Despite working in an industry that is intensely, often bitterly, competitive, Manuel loves what he does. He admits he's taken his share of knocks and criticisms, but shrugs it off.
"I believe fashion is fun and I think way too many people take it seriously. I'm the first person to make fun of myself when doing something crazy, so a little self-deprecation doesn't hurt.
Jay Manuel’s Top Tips…
Top style tip for everyday people:
A lot of people say to me, I want to look stylish, but don't know how to do it and they're scared of style. Well, if you have a great pair of jeans, a black blazer and a white shirt, you will always be in style. You can wear that any evening.
Top tip on how to exude confidence even when you're feeling low:
Do what I do. So many self-help books have wrtten about it and it's so simple, but it truly does work. When I'm feeling really low or I've got heavy things on my mind, or can't get a problem solved, I put on music. That always makes me feel good. I don't listen to the sad songs, I put on something that makes me excited. if you're getting ready for work, eating your breakfast, don't turn on CNN, don't turn on the TV in the morning, I think that's the worst thing you can do. Pop that music in when you don't feel good and your whole energy level will change.
Top makeup tip:
I think one of the most underused products in any woman's makeup bag is the bronzer. They think it's for the summertime and making them look tanned, but what it can actually do is bring dimension back to the skin. When women use foundation and powder, they put it on all over like wall to wall carpeting. But if you use a bronzer on your hairline and cheekbones, and not across your face, it'll make your skin appear more natural.
Top tip on posing for photos:
Most people, when they get in front of a camera, throw their heads back, because they are nervous. From a psychological standpoint, when you are nervous in front of a camera you tend to want to feel bigger to make yourself feel better. What's actually happening is that you create an unflattering angle to a camera lens. Even if you don't have a double chin it'll make it seem like you have one. Best tip: drop the chin and lean forward towards the lens just a little bit. What that does is it puts your body back into proportion because camera lenses, which are curved, have an in-built distortion. So by leaning into the camera and keeping your chin down, you will present a more flattering angle.
Top tip for young aspiring models:
Never let anyone tell you that you need to pay them $2,000 to put together your portfolio and market you. It's the oldest and biggest scam there is - ever! If someone truly believes in you and what you bring to the table, then they will invest in you. Big agencies all over the world might send just Polaroids of new models to a client, so It doesn't take much money or time. As you grow, your agency will recover that money from paying jobs.
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